Irish History and a Few Classic Dishes
Submitted by “Crack-yer-barrel”:
It’s that time of year again to talk about Irish food!
I love Irish food along with my fellow descendants of a people who, during a nationwide famine, found the fortitude to hop on a boat with their families and sail across a giant ocean for days and days to a country that mostly despised them. And still, after all that, they fought for their place in America. They fought for their families to be here. Some even fought for their new country in a war, even paying the ultimate sacrifice for that service.
Irish food in America has been pigeonholed into a crisper drawer in our minds. A drawer full of some Guinness stout along with a couple of shamrock cupcakes wrapped in wax paper from the bakery. And typically, this drawer only gets opened about once a year around March 17. Why is that? Maybe we need to dive into what Irish cuisine is and where it came from.
You cannot begin to discuss Irish food without taking into account the country’s history, the geographic attributes of the island, and the potato.
The island country of Ireland sits at the westernmost point of Europe. It is speculated that its first inhabitants came to the island about 10,000 years ago. Archaeological sources claim that these Mesolithic people were mostly hunter-gatherers, consuming seals, fish, mollusks, native herbs, seaweeds, plants, and whatever else the island had to offer.
With the island being void of most hunted game, such as boars, deer, and other larger fauna, animals to feed the early settlers were brought in from Europe, mostly from England. Boar was probably one of the first domesticated farm animals to be brought over, with sheep and cattle following about 4,000 years later in the Neolithic period. At this point in time, agricultural technology made its way to the island from places like the Middle East and especially the Fertile Crescent. Certain grains were cultivated throughout the island and cooked into early versions of porridges, or “stir-about,” as it is referred to. Because of the cool and damp Irish climate, wheat does not grow well; however, grains like oats, barley, and rye thrive on the island. These grains were utilized by the early settlers to feed the populace with early baked goods.
Grains were milled and mixed with native seaweeds and local vegetation to produce pastries that were probably akin to a hockey puck. Nevertheless, others came to the region in the following years—Vikings, Celts, Normans, and early Christians. Trade was bountiful as wool, seafood, and cattle were exchanged for exotic spices such as saffron and nutmeg. With Ireland being part of the British Empire, it had access to goods from around the world. Things like sugar and citrus fruits were initially available mostly to the Irish upper class and then slowly trickled down to the commoners.
It wasn’t until the late 16th century that the infamous potato was brought to the island. Ireland’s soil and climate were perfect for potato production. Slowly, the Irish recipes that predominantly used grains were replaced or augmented with potatoes. Breads, cakes, porridges, and soups were updated to include the spud and feed the masses. Potatoes married well with the excellent dairy products already produced on the island due to the high quality of grazing grass that covers the countryside. In summary, Ireland is well suited to grow potatoes and grass that makes good butter and milk. Put it all together, and you have mashed potato bliss!
Although the famed Potato Blight of the 1800s nearly wiped out one million Irish and sent another million overseas, the island eventually rebounded. Cuisine at this time started to take shape into what we know it to be today. The inventions of baking powder and baking soda gave a “lift” to the Irish bread game. Fluffy cakes and soda breads became staple creations from Irish kitchens. Beef, although still largely exported, became more available to the common Irish population and not just the aristocrats. Lamb also became more widely consumed and took center stage in dishes like Shepherd’s or Cottage Pie and the official Irish dish, Irish Stew.
Irish Stew (A.K.A. Lamb Stew):
4 lbs Lamb Stew Meat, cubed
10 medium sized Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in half
3 large white onions, sliced
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
1 head of garlic, top trimmed but kept whole
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons tallow or bacon grease
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped parsley or chives for garnish
Instructions:
1. Put the stew meat in a bowl and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper.
2. In a heavy-bottomed soup pot, heat the tallow or bacon grease until hot but not smoking. Add the stew meat and cook until well-browned.
3. Add the onion and cook until slightly translucent. Add about 1 1/2 gallons of water and cover.
4. While waiting for the water to reach a boil, get a piece of cheesecloth and place the garlic head, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf in the center. Tie the bundle with twine, leaving enough string to hang over the top for easy retrieval.
5. Once the pot reaches a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and dunk the cheesecloth package into the broth, tying the remaining string to the handle. Simmer until the lamb is tender (a half hour to an hour or so)
6. Add the potatoes and simmer until they are tender. Season to taste. Serve with chopped parsley or chives.
Guinness Soda Bread:
(Adapted from "The Irish Cookbook" by JP McMahon)
Dry Ingredients:
5 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup white flour
1 cup spelt flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup sunflower seeds
1 cup pepita seeds
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
Wet Ingredients:
3 1/2 cups whole buttermilk
2/3 cup molasses
1 cup Guinness Stout
2 eggs, beaten
1. Sift all dry ingredients into a large bowl and whisk together.
2. In another large bowl, whisk together the wet ingredients.
3. Combine both mixtures and spoon into two well-greased bread loaf pans.
4. Top with a sprinkle of oats and bake in a preheated 300°F oven for one hour. A toothpick inserted should come out clean.
5. Serve with "Jameson Orange Butter" (recipe follows)
Jameson Orange Butter:
2 sticks (8 oz) soft butter
1 tablespoon Jameson Orange Whiskey
1 teaspoon salt
Zest from 1 orange
Instructions:
1. Whip the butter in a small mixer bowl with a paddle attachment.
2. Lower speed and add the whiskey, salt, and orange zest.
3. Increase speed to whip again to the proper consistency.
Boxty (Irish Potato Pancakes):
3 medium Yukon potatoes, peeled and diced
3 medium raw Yukon potatoes, peeled and grated
1 cup whole buttermilk
2 cups self-rising flour, sifted
1 egg, whisked
1 teaspoon salt
4–6 oz clarified Irish butter for frying
Instructions:
1. Boil the diced potatoes until tender, then drain and mash.
2. Squeeze the grated potatoes to remove excess moisture, reserving the starch.
3. Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for 5–10 minutes.
4. Fry in a hot skillet with clarified butter, cooking 4 minutes per side.
Thank you to “Crack-yer-barrel” for these delectable recipes!
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